By Rusty Chinnis
sun staff writer
I first met Andrew Bennett, owner of Andros South
Lodge in South Andros Bahamas, in Denver this past August
at the Fly Fishing Dealers Show. When the conversation
came around to bonefishing, Bennett was eager to tell
me about the big fish opportunities that the area offered
during the winter. My experience bonefishing in the Bahamas
had been during the prime spring months of April, May
and early June, traditional months for chasing the "gray
ghost" over the vast flats that surround the largest
islands of the Bahamas chain. I was intrigued by his description
of the numbers of fish, their size and the lack of any
angling pressure during that time of year. When I got
a call from him in September with an offer to join him
and several other anglers in the fly fishing industry
for a week in November, I quickly accepted.
Savvy anglers know that the winter is the best time to
explore these storied Bahamian waters. The general angling
public is wary of this time of the year due to the threat
of cold fronts that pass through the area just as they
do in the U.S. The big difference with Andros is that
the latitude is much farther south than destinations on
the more northerly islands. On this trip I would experience
first hand the fishing challenges and opportunities present
during a powerful cold front.
Andros South Lodge is located approximately 30 miles north
of the extreme southern tip of South Andros, the largest
and least populated Island in the Bahamas. Situated on
a lovely white beach, Andros South is a 10-minute ride
from Little Creek where the lodges 18 foot Dolphin
skiffs are moored. The location gives access to the southeastern
side of the island with its myriad cays and creeks as
well as a "direct" route to the unpopulated
and vast west side. During our six days of fishing we
never saw another boat other than an occasional sighting
of one of our own group. This is what I refer to as the
"real" Bahamas, an area that has none of the
trapping of the "American Caribbean," the luxurious
resorts and Four Season pampered mentality. Instead we
were treated to the charm, warmth, and hospitality of
the Bahamian people and their rich, varied and sumptuous
local cuisine. At the end of a days fishing, I enjoyed
walking to the Ocean View bar, located on Little Creek,
where we drank a cold beer, talked about the days
exploits, and either watched or joined the locals in animated
games of dominos.
The first two days on the water were beautiful with light
winds, blue skies and some excellent bonefishing opportunities.
We fished the west side on days one and two, never seeing
another boat either day. Immersed in an incredible seascape
of endless flats and serpentine creeks, the fishing was
steady with no more than 20 minutes between shots at doubles
and small schools of bones to six pounds. I fished with
Bennett and we alternated shots, never getting tired of
standing on the bow or taking pictures while waiting our
next turn.
On the third day, the largest front to pass through the
area in two years brought clouds, accelerating winds and
plummeting temperatures. It looked as though we would
get to test Bennetts hypothesis of winter bonefishing
in spades. Although everyone made a valiant attempt that
day, all boats were in by noon as weather conditions worsened.
That night as winds howled through the palms, and temperatures
dropped into the low 50s, even the most optimistic of
our crew was hard pressed to put on a hopeful face.
The next morning dawned cold, bright and blustery with
sustained winds of 25 mph and gusts to 30. Even our guide,
Josie Sands, didnt give us much of a chance that
day, but Im glad he didnt tell the fish. I
shared the bow with Ramsey Smith, a guide at Bennetts
camp in Alaska and the assistant tennis coach at Duke.
Throughout the day, beginning at our first stop, we cast
to and landed bonefish to eight pounds with amazing regularity.
At times the fishing was so fast that we would hand the
rod to one another and strip line off for another cast
as we unhooked our fish. On a day that most anglers would
consider impossible, we landed 15 bonefish and cast to
hundreds of fish, including two dozen that Sands estimated
at 12 to 15 pounds. On the next day we had better conditions
and even more impressive numbers. We boated 19 bones and
had three doubles. Smith even cast to and fought a 100-pound
blacktip shark that took a large popper on an 11 weight
rod.
The last day of the trip, lodge manager John Toker joined
us for a day of wading the flats on the southeast side
of the big island. The conditions were perfect as everyone
including our guide Sands caught and released bonefish
during a fast rising tide. We fished from the boat for
a couple of hours during the high tide and then ended
the day on a beautiful flat that teemed with schools of
waking bonefish. Over beers that afternoon at the Ocean
View, Smith confessed that he had been trying to find
an early flight out three days earlier when he lost confidence
in our chances, and what a big mistake that would have
been. I must admit that I hadnt been very optimistic
myself, but now Ill plan my trips during the cooler
months. I saw, first hand, the size and numbers of bonefish
that swim the flats during the winter months. Bennett
was right, and he couldnt have picked a better week
to prove his point.
Anglers interested in classic Bahamian bonefishing will
love this destination. The lodge is single occupancy,
comfortable and features sumptuous local cuisine. For
information on Andros South Lodge go to www.androssouth.com
or call 1-800-344-3628