
SUN PHOTO/RUSTY CHINNIS
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By Rusty Chinnis
sun staff writer
Editors note: Sun Outdoors Editor Rusty Chinnis
recently went to Belize to pursue his passion of fly fishing
for permit. This is Part One of his adventure to that
Central American country.
As fly fishermen, were always seeking ways to improve
our enjoyment of the sport. And while that ultimately
boils down to learning ways to be more successful at catching
fish, its not really numbers that drive our passion.
Its more personal than that. If it were a numbers
game, we would still be fishing with live bait and waiting
for the fish to find us. Our path to success is paved
with mentors and milestones that redefine our personal
passage through a life of fly-fishing. Its experiencing
and seeking to understand the natural world and the fish
that swim its waters that makes the fly fishing journey
so special.
I first picked up a fly rod more than 40 years ago, and
over four decades Ive had many memorable days on
the water. When I look back, some of my fondest memories
are not about the fish that Ive caught (which still
are fresh, alive and sustaining) but the people Ive
met along the way, the personalities Ive encountered
and the friendships fostered. Fly fishers seem to possess
a quality that attracts, entertains and enlightens us.
No matter where you are in your evolution as a fly angler,
Im sure youve had the same experiences. Recently
I had the honor of meeting one of the most charismatic
individuals Ive encountered in my four decades of
fly-fishing.
I met Lincoln Westby on a blustery morning in March outside
my motel in Hopkins, Belize. Due to a strong cold front
that had blown through the day before, my transfer to
his Blue Horizon Lodge had been delayed. When he asked
if I was going to the lodge, I wasnt sure if he
was a guide, the owner or merely a taxi driver. Little
did I know that this unassuming man would, in less than
a week, teach me more about permit fishing than I had
assimilated in more than 10 years of stalking this "holy
grail" of fly fishing.
Westbys spry demeanor and sparkling eyes belie his
six plus decades. A Belizean by birth, he has fished the
coastal waters of Belize since he was a child. He began
his fishing career as a commercial diver and fisherman
before following his brothers Joel and David as guides
to American spin anglers in the late 60s. Except for a
stint in the British Army from 1961 to 1967 and two years
working on a research ship in Bermuda, he has dedicated
his life to learning the ways of the permit, tarpon and
bonefish. After working as a guide and manager at nearly
every lodge on the Belize coast, Westby had the passion
to have his own lodge. With the help and counsel of Will
Bauer, longtime permit angler and former Belize lodge
owner, the vision of the Blue Horizon Lodge was born.
Westby and his common-law wife, Pearline, leased a small
mangrove island from the government with an option to
buy. The island was inundated with water on high tides
and it took over six months and more than 10,000 boatloads
of sawdust and sand to create enough upland to build the
first building. Finally, in 1997, Bauer brought the first
group of anglers to the lodge and Westbys dream
became a reality.
On my trip, I had the good fortune to pick a week when
Bauer was at the Lodge, and I was able to fish with Westby
on six consecutive days. Each day, I was immersed in an
endless world of multi-dimensional coral patch reefs that
hosted school after school of permit. And while there
were few spells of more than 45 minutes between fish,
it was Westbys intimate knowledge of the terrain
and the permit that held me spellbound. I fished four
and one half days, (and spent a day observing and photographing
Bauer and Westby) and landed five permit. The number of
opportunities was phenomenal, and while these permit were
less pressured than in other locations Ive fished,
that didnt change their basic nature.
Next week: Lincoln Westby and the Blue Horizon Lodge