If I had to pick my favorite fish to catch, it would probably be a bonefish. Tarpon are amazing targets, as are redfish, little tunny and snook, but sight fishing for bonefish in the locations they inhabit and the crystal-clear waters in which they swim is incomparable. Not to mention that a well-placed fly is more often than not tracked and inhaled.
From Nov. 10-17, I returned for my seventh trip to South Andros in the Bahamas and my second trip to Mars Bay Bonefish Lodge with my friend Captain Rick Grassett and a group he had been bringing to the lodge (except for a COVID-19 pass in 2020) for the past six years. The lodge is situated near the southeast tip of what is the largest and least populated island in the Bahamas. I’ve been to several other islands in the chain, but South Andros is special. It’s maybe one of the only places I’ve ever been where things had hardly changed in almost 20 years. That went for the fishing as well. There are very few places where you can travel to in a day and then fish all day and sometimes never see another angler. South Andros was like that when I first visited in the late ’90s and it remains that way today.
This trip (except for one day with perfect conditions) was challenging, with frequent clouds, some rain and a persistent 20-plus mph east wind. Despite the inclement weather, the guides were able to lead anglers to bonefish every day. On the days when the clouds persisted, we were able to stalk tailing bonefish on the flats while the appearance of the sun led to some terrific sight fishing opportunities. On the final day of the trip, my partner Kirk Grassett and I had our best day, despite some extremely challenging conditions.
One of the reasons anglers travel to this part of the Bahamas, besides the endless flats and solitude, is the number of big bonefish that ply these waters in the early fall. Fly anglers have a very good chance at bones pushing 10 pounds and on every trip, a fish or two in the double digits are landed. That was no exception this trip as one member of our party, Tracey Baker, landed a bonefish that pushed 12 pounds on the first day. I’m still looking for my first 10-pound bonefish, but did manage to land several fish from seven to nine pounds.
The lodge is smoothly run by a Bahamian staff and guides, and is owned and managed by Bill Howard, an expatriate from Nebraska. We stayed at the lodge for seven nights and fished six days. The day started out with a 7 a.m. breakfast, although coffee was on for early risers by 5:30 a.m. We loaded up at 8 a.m. and made a five-minute ride to a nearby boat basin where boats, guides, drinks and lunches were waiting. After an approximately 30-minute ride, we rounded the south end of the “main” island and entered into an angler’s paradise with seemingly endless flats, islands and channels. After seven hours of chasing schools of cruising, tailing and schooling bonefish and dodging sharks and barracuda we returned to the basin at 4:30 p.m.
Back at the lodge, our chefs Cathy, Chrystal and Vaddie treated us to local hors d’oeuvres and libations of our choosing. The food at the lodge was consistently excellent and included fresh local delicacies including lobster, conch, local fish, steaks and rack of lamb. Dinner was served at 7 p.m. and evenings were spent discussing the day’s fishing on the back veranda where cool Bahamian breezes were complemented by a sky ablaze with stars and the occasional satellite. On the nights when the wind abated and the mosquitos pushed us inside, we watched football on a flat-screen TV and anticipated the next day’s fishing.
If you’re interested in experiencing some of the world’s best fishing in a destination that’s literally in your backyard, contact Grassett at 941-350-9790 or check out his website. The lodge can be reached by emailing marsbaybonefishlodge@yahoo.com. Check out their website.
